This series will describe the installation of a "deluxe two way" truss rod. There are way more than one style of truss rod! Please, don't get this series mixed up with other styles of truss rods. . .shall we proceed?

This is a photograph of the business end of a two way truss rod. These are sometimes referred to as "removable" truss rods. They work very well, and are the choice of some very good builders both individual and industrial. They work by two threaded rods that are attached at both ends by a small brass block by which the two rods are attached. Both rods are threaded, but only the top rod (the one with the nut brazed onto it) moves during the truss rods use. You can see it operate, even outside the neck by clamping heel end of the rod into a vice (not terribly tight, mind you) and turning the business end with a 1/4" "T" wrench. The two rods oppose each other in such a way that the two rods create a bow in  either direction! This means you are able to correct a neck that has either a forward bow (a bow) or a back bow (a warp). These truss rods have been around a long time. There not a new thing, but I'm glad they are available for new construction

This truss rod will be installed into this maple neck blank, and will serve as a good defense against problems down the road. A truss rod, no matter which type, is NOT designed to lower the action of an instrument! It is to insure the proper amount of relief, or forward bow in the neck. Yes! Forward bow! Just a tiny amount of forward bow is needed for most instruments to play properly without buzz and aggravation. There are some instruments that are able to have a perfectly flat fingerboard under normal string tension, but I will not get into all that at this time. . .maybe another series.

.Although the measurement can not clearly be seen in this photograph, it is important to measure the truss rod in order to set it at it's proper depth. I add 1/16" to the measurement in order to set the rod slightly deeper than the brass block. When installed, the adjustment head (shown to the left) will be installed as shown (adjustment head down).

This, although a back lit photo, represents the proper setting of the blade height on the table saw. That's the instrument of choice (at least for me) when installing this type of rod. You will have to make a couple of passes, lining up the center of the cut with your guide. *NOTE* You can NOT use the kick guard when cutting a truss rod grove because you will not be slicing through the whole board. Use caution, common sense, and position your self to the side of your work. Never directly behind it! A router may also be used as well as a table saw with a dato SP? blade. As long as the grove fits the size of the truss rod, your method of installation doesn't matter.