Authorized Dealer for:

Huber Banjos, Parts and Accessories

Cedar Creek Custom Cases

Keith Tuners ... the finest.

Banjo Lessons

Banjo Repair

Guitar Repair

Mandolin Repair

Richie Dotson

Acoustic Box

Richmond, Virginia

Williamsburg, Virginia

Midlothian, Virginia

Chesterfield, Virginia

***These pages are for information only.  If you choose to follow any of the steps contained within this site, you do so at your own risk. ***

Prefessional Level Banjo, Guitar and Mandolin lessons in Williamsburg, Virginia.  Click Here for Details.

 

Mobile Repair & Setup Calendar

New Banjo Railroad Spike Capo Video
New Changing a Skin Banjo Head Video
New Making a New Bone Nut Video

E-Mail Me by Clicking Here

Home 
MASTERTONE Name Blocks
Pre War Gibson Style Pips (5th string nuts)
Banjo Repair Page
Guitar Repair Page
Mandolin Repair Page
The Bella Voce Project New
Changing Strings on an Autoharp New
Pre War Gibson Banjo Testing
Which Banjo is the Gibson Pre War?
Pearl Inlay design and work
Repair Shop Prices
Custom Banjos
Banjo Tablature Page  
Tone Ring Ping Test
Resonator Ping Test
Free Bluegrass Downloads
Tidewater Jams and Shows
About Me
Humor ... The Twisted Side of Me
Download Free Banjo Ring Tones
Why I prefer to ship using U.P.S.
Luthier and other Links
Sign My Guestbook
View My Guestbook

Join me on Facebook - click here!

My Site is Made possible in part by:

Amelia Family Campground

Lawson Entertainment

Cabin Fever Pickin Party

Authentic Guitars

The Outer Banks Music Showcase

Victorian Station

 

©1992 - 2012 Richie Dotson. All photographs, graphics and text owned by Richie Dotson. Website designed, written, photographed and maintained by Richie Dotson.  All rights reserved

Hit Counter

Banjo Lessons

Banjo Repair

Guitar Repair

Mandolin Repair

Richie Dotson

Acoustic Box

 

    Here is the new banjo head.  What? You say its getting all wet?  Well, good! You see, first of all you will need a new banjo head.  Don't skimp, though.  A good quality head sill cost a bit of change, but will be worth it not only for the quality of the end result, but for the easy of mounting the thing.

soaking the new head

    You will need to purchase a banjo head that is at least 2 inches (preferably larger) than your banjo pot diameter.  This means if you have a banjo that excepts an 11" head, you will want to get a minimum of a 13" banjo head.  16" heads are great as they give you a bit more room to work with.  You'll see why soon enough.

    Let the new head soak in luke warm water for only a few minutes.  15 may be too long but that depends on a few things like the density and quality of the head you purchased and even the relative humidity on the day you change it.  At any rate, you do not want the banjo head to soak to the point that it starts to swell.  This will make it difficult to work with.  On the other hand you don't want it wet on the surface only.  There is a point of mild pliability that is best to work with and that is difficult to explain.  You just have to see for yourself,
I'm afraid.

    Now we will place the new, already soaked for the proper amount of time, banjo head onto the rim.  Then, as seen in the photo below and left, the flesh hoop goes on next.  Don't worry about the moisture at this point.  This went on for years before plastic banjo heads came along and banjos survived just fine.  After the flesh hoop, the tension hoop (sometimes called the stretcher band) goes on.  This step is a set up only as you will see in the next few photos.

placing the head onto the rimthe tension hoop molds onto the rim


      


Here is the real tricky part.  The flesh hoop is the device the head material wraps around in order for the tension hoop to do it's job.  This is also the most difficult part of the job of changing the skin head.  In the photo below and to the left, yo can see I have the whole thing started in one place off to the right of the photo.  Now, the real fun begins.  I keep a few cloths pins handy while I hold the flesh hoop with the index finger of my right hand while pulling the skin head up through the underside of the tension hoop then securing the excess head material to the tension hoop with the cloths pins  Notice the flesh hoop is not a solid piece.  Most are not and this adds a bit more adventure to this already very adventurous task.  Try to keep the flesh hoop from slipping inside the rim.  This will cause you to have to start over.

If you don't get it on the first try its okay.  Even if you don't get it the first hour or so the head can be soaked again and the whole process started over if need be.  The total working time with the banjo head varies depending on the temperature and humidity.  



routing the skinusing my littke helpers

    

BanjoResource.com                            Next Skin Head Changing Page